Foxa’s range contains hundreds of different fabrics for all kinds of demanding applications, including military clothing, workwear, and outdoor clothing. Fabrics are increasingly created in collaboration with customers. Sometimes the aim is to find a particular colour; other times it is to create entirely new properties.
Product development at Foxa usually begins in one of two ways. Foxa’s own product development keeps the range and products competitive; lots of research and development is carried out on eco-friendly fabrics, for example. Increasingly, new fabrics are created in collaboration projects with customers
“Continuity and profitability drive the development of new fabrics. Product development isn’t worthwhile on small batches or one-time production batches,” says Heli Sukki, who is responsible for product development at Foxa.
A customer’s need for a new fabric might arise from a change in operating environment or a brand overhaul.
“The army is one good example of how military clothing has to be able to withstand various new threats, such as chemical attacks. And as technology advances, clothes have to advance along with it. Patterns and dyes, for example, have been developed so that they aren’t detectable with night-vision equipment.”
So what is the new black?
Developing a new colour for workwear is usually one of the smaller projects the company handles, but not necessarily the simplest.
“You would be forgiven for thinking that coming up with a new colour is easy. That isn’t necessarily the case, as colours look different on different surfaces; glossy and matte surfaces reflect light differently. And if a piece of workwear contains two different fabrics, the development work has to be carried out on both,” Heli Sukki explains.
A desired and sought-after colour can arrive on Foxa’s desk in the form of a fabric sample or as a Pantone colour code.
“Blue is difficult when it comes to durability. Grey and red colours are also a challenge, as there are a lot of different options, and they always look different in different light.”
Smart properties
A product development project always starts with a review of Foxa’s range. Do any of the fabrics already contain the properties the customer wants?
“For large competitive tendering, we often have to develop an entirely new fabric. The tenders can be extremely precise with regard to strength, weight, density, and even the cross-section of the thread.”
“Projects which are more free-form involve lots of interaction with the customer. We often decide to modify an existing fabric by adding something new.”
On average, a product development project takes from 6 months to a year. The fabric is woven and, if necessary, test batches are printed and tested at the factory and in Foxa’s own laboratory. Some tests are carried out in an external laboratory. Final certification tests are always carried out in a third-party laboratory.
New fabric properties include thermoregulation, antibacterial properties, and moisture wicking. Worldwide, smart clothing has been invented with sleeves that shorten when conditions are warm. Future fabrics will be able to provide health data about the wearer.
“There are certainly properties that are yet to be invented. There’s still plenty of development work ahead,” says Heli Sukki.