Workwear must perform the function for which it is designed. But how can water, dirt and oil repellency be ensured when we want to move away from the chemicals used to achieve these properties? At Foxa, the transition to fluorine-free treatments is already well underway. This change requires testing and a more detailed discussion of exactly which properties are actually needed from the fabric.
Water beads up on the fabric’s surface and dirt comes off easily. For decades, PFAS chemicals have been used to provide textiles with these useful properties. Now, this large group of chemicals is a hot topic in the textile industry.
The problem with PFAS compounds, known as ‘forever chemicals’, is their persistence in the environment. Increasing attention is being paid to their harmful effects, and their use is being restricted. Some of these compounds are already subject to restrictions, and the EU is currently preparing broader restrictions.
At Foxa, we have already embraced this change even before the comprehensive EU-level regulations have been finalised. The majority of the company’s product range is available with fluorine-free treatment.
Work on developing fluorine-free alternatives began well in advance at the request of customers. Customers are well-informed, ask about alternatives and want to be prepared for the future.
– “When we develop new products, our starting point is fluorine-free treatment. However, the intended use must always be assessed: is a particular chemical essential, and can the requirements be met without the use of fluorine?” explains Heli Sukki, Head of Product Development at Foxa.
Same fabric, different treatment
Changing a chemical is not merely a matter of updating the product specifications. A new finish can affect the fabric’s behaviour in ways that only become apparent through testing. At Foxa, fluorine-free alternatives have been studied in parallel with previous treatments.
When a batch of the familiar quality has been ordered from the factory, a test batch with a fluorine-free finish has been produced alongside it. This has enabled a comparison of how the change affects, for example, water repellency, sewability, seam behaviour and colour fastness.
The treatment may make the fabric more slippery, which could affect the strength of the seams. Colour fastness may also change. Therefore, examining a single property is not sufficient; it is necessary to determine how the fabric performs as a whole.
Water repellency is tested both when the fabric is new and after washing. The required standards that the material must meet are specified for the supplier. The effect of a fluorine-free treatment may diminish more quickly during washing, so wash durability is also an important part of the assessment.
– Performance should not decline. When we change the treatment, we research and test the product. It is important to strike a balance between performance, durability and sustainability, says Sukki.
Are all these properties really necessary?
There are fluorine-free solutions for water repellency. Oil repellency is a more challenging issue. In demanding workwear, it may also be a matter of protecting the wearer, in which case any changes to the properties must be assessed with particular care.
However, not all applications require the same level of protection. That is why Foxa discusses with customers what is actually expected of the garment. Is the aim simply water repellency, or does the material also need to withstand oils and other chemicals?
– We try to interview customers to find out what they really need. If the only requirement is water repellency, there’s no need for a heavy-duty finish, notes Sukki.
Sometimes features are added to the list of requirements just to be on the safe side. People want the best qualities of different fabrics combined in a single product, even if not all of them can be achieved together. Some of the requirements may also be unnecessary for the actual purpose of the garment.
Chemical finishing is not the only way to influence a material’s performance. Fibre choices and fabric structure can also support water repellency. If a product already has a water-blocking membrane, it is worth assessing what kind of surface treatment is needed in addition to that.
– The PFAS transition encourages us to view textiles as a whole. When the intended use and essential requirements are defined together, we can seek a solution that serves the user and reduces unnecessary chemical treatments. Here at Foxa, this work is already part of our day-to-day product development.